Because one flavour is not enough

That's it for this trip. Have to get this phone into the post and me into security. Thanks to everyone for such a wonderful trip!

Last breakfast

At Tokyo Soup Stock. Not Japanese food, but I like it.

That takes me back

The Uniqlo in Narita T1 is doing anime t-shirts - Dragonball, Galaxy Express 999, Cobra, Mazinger and this.

Last train

As usual, I don't want to leave!

Dawn out the window

Woke up - or rather ceased to be able to sleep - about quarter to six. Not sure where this is, but we were popping in and out of tunnels and the dawn was fading as fishing boats set out to sea.

The nobi nobi compartments are as uncomfortable as they look. The carriage is super-heated and the bunks have some kind of under carpet heating as well. It was fun, but I think I'll just plan my way out of needing it again. That or pay for a real bunk.

We've had the wake-up call for Yokohama, and will be in Tokyo in about 40 minutes. There's nowhere to put cases and when I asked the conductor he advised me to move into an unoccupied pair of top bunks and store my luggage in one. I was most grateful for the second blanket to use as a pillow.

Dinner on the move

I had planned to get something to eat at Fukuoka when changing trains, but the shop there was totally cleaned out - not even a rice ball. Thankfully the bullet train's on-board catering had a bento.

Peek-a-boo

The spectacles bridge in Nagasaki.

Last lunch

As I was going to be on the move from that evening, I had a proper sit-down lunch at a tonkatsu place.

Moomintrolls!

Seen in a shopping center in Nagasaki (I was only there because it had a ferris wheel, honest). I'm used to the giant Ghibli plushies (they seem to get bigger every year) but first time I'd seen a giant plush Moomintroll.

Alcohol and tentacles

Sakai took us to a favourite place of his, a bar specialising in shochu that also served food, cooked by the owner. It was amazing, from the fish cake amuse-bouche to the kara-age, grilled mushrooms, deep-fried aubergine and house special mackerel. There was serious talk of my abducting the owner for his culinary skills, but he declined. The shochu sounded equally good, especially one called Nagome.

We then went on to a Chinese restaurant - both places were tiny and would seat no more than 10 or 12 people. I'm not sure if I've ever had Ma Po Tofu before, but this place would take some beating.

And another thing

The cleaner's cart in Himeji station plays a bleepy version of 'It's a Small World After All' when moving.

Night train

In Himeji waiting for the Sunrise Seto sleeper train. No heated waiting room. Updates from Nagasaki once I'm safely on board...

Sailing back from Ioujima

The trip to Ioujima was the idea of Sakai, a friend of Yumi's. (We finally got around to dropping the -san and -sensei and just calling each other by our first names.) The island is lovely, and the slightly salty onsen was amazing. There were rotenburo, outdoor baths, with fantastic views and a lovely cool breeze. On the way back the catamaran was sailing into the wind and it was almost hard to breathe. I got some good photos in while being harrassed by a primary school on a day trip.

Only here

Chocolate sparkling water in the gift shop in Ioujima Onsen. They also had castella (pound cake) and champon flavoured drops. And more Sakamoto Ryoma merchandise than you could shake a sword at. I especially liked the t-shirt with 'Ryoma, what would you think of Japan today?' - and having your cartoon likeness or actor on sweets, curry, coffee, keyrings and who knows what else.

Cherry time!

You can't get away from them. Cherry blossom steamer and biscotti from Starbucks. Being consumed on a blazingly sunny Dejima Wharf waiting to meet people for local champon noodles and a boat trip to an island onsen!

Silence for the views

Kondo-sensei took me to the Endo Shusaku museum north of Nagasaki, in the area where his novel 'Silence' is set. Nice little museum and amazing views.

Elementary cherry blossom viewing

I spent the vast majority of yesterday with Kondo-sensei's friends at a cherry blossom viewing party, or hanami. Then we went to one of their houses. Then we went to Chinatown. A day of eating, drinking, seeing things I otherwise wouldn't have seen and more eating.

This is relevant to my interests

This morning I went to Dejima, the former Portuguese and then Dutch trading post that operated during the period of national seclusion. I thought it would only take an hour to see, but I could have spent most of a day there. The reconstructed buildings are wonderful, and there are loads of exhibits and information.

Some drama about Sakamoto Ryoma is on at the moment, and he's everywhere. There's even a Doumo-kun dressed up as him. And most tenuous of all, curry.

Obviously

A loggerhead turtle at the Canal City shopping centre.

I had ramen at a ticket-based fake stall restaurant in the basement. I'm sure Andy will throttle me next time I see him.

I visited the lovely Kushida Shrine with its carnival floats and then the Machiya Folk Museum - worth the trip for the video of the festival and the chance to buy a tenugui (kind of hand towel) with a rear view of each team's jacket worn by a man essentially naked from the waist down.

Nowhere is safe

Another amazing shop, Beniya, with kimono, yukata and lots of things made of traditional fabrics. I got some gorgeous t-shirts on sale.