Saturday 24 November 2007

Playing the system

Airline Staff and British Tourist

AS - Is this your bag for the cabin?

BT - Yes, both of them.

AS - Is one a laptop?

BT - No, that's just books.

AS - I'm sorry, you can only take one p4ece into the cabin. Unless it's a laptop. So, again - is it a laptop?

BT (bemused but happy) - Oh. Yes. Thank you.

Got to put this mobile in the post. Later...

Sulk

I don't want to go!

Can't I bring everything I'm going home for here?

Friday 23 November 2007

You can sell anything with anything

James Dean wool, anyone?

Awe

I wish the Japanese would come and take over English trains. Dad and I were in hysterics over live apologies for 30 second delays. Now at Shibuya killing time before my train - there's one to Yokohama every 4 minutes, and an express every 15.

Lazy day

Spent yesterday in the National Museum (didn't get to see it all) and an hour or so in Akihabara. Today I've posted my books and calendar - there is a special post office window open 24hrs even on a bank holiday - and am about to head for Yokohama to see an old friend.

Can't believe I'm off tomorrow. At least my case closes.

Wednesday 21 November 2007

This is the shot

Mt. Fuji!

This is the shot

Mt. Fuji!

What more could you ask for?

It's the back end of November, the sun is warm, there's a gentle wind off Lake Ashi and my Spanish galleon cruise ship is about to depart.

I've only been here a few hours and I want to come back already.

Up, up and up!

Heading up into the mountains northwest of Tokyo to Hakone. It's cold but clear so should get some good shots as soon as I'm not standing on a train... I can get a seat, but keep giving them to mountain-loving old ladies. Amazing views!

This is the funicular to the top of Mt. Souzan, which is followed by a 30 minute cable car ride over the mountain to the lake on the other side, via sulfer pits!

Tuesday 20 November 2007

Time travel

Here's one for Ada - you can go back to the Heian Period by going to Tochigi?!

Monday 19 November 2007

First time for everything

First time I've been on a shinkansen other than the Tokaido line going north on the Tohoku line to get to Nikko.

Made an important discovery yesterday - finally located some Japanese-English technical dictionaries. Not in the dictionary section, but in with guides on technical writing in English in the sciences section. Now I just have to get over the price...

After the picnic

Teddy bear wedding and kids at JR Towers Nagoya.

Sayonara Dad

Dad has hopefully just taken off, and I'm waiting for my train from the airport to leave for Nagoya.

I was going to try to do Hakone on the way to Tokyo, but I don't think I'll have time. Plus I don't think I slept too well last night and feel very fuzzy, so I think I'll go around my old haunts in Nagoya and have a more relaxed trip to Tokyo.

Sunday 18 November 2007

バカ。っていうか、超バカ。

Ready for a Japanese lesson? 'Baka' means 'idiot'. Like when you get lost on the way to a hotel after dark, with all your luggage, while guiding your Dad.

'Chou' is a prefix meaning 'very/extra/super'. Like when you follow that up by accidentally choosing a Korean restaurant on your Dad's last night in Japan when he specifically said he wanted tn eat Japanese. That's chou-baka.

Nagoya Sunroute Hotel wins the prize for most bijou room so far, but good view of the Nagoya skyline if you ignore the car parks.

Down from the holy mountain

After an excellent night's sleep (not sure if we owe it to the cold mountain air or the meditation) and a morning in the enormous cemetary and retracing our steps arond the giant pagoda where my camera batteries died yesterday, followed by a delicious curry in a dilapidated restaurant by the tourist office, buying a few cakes as souvenirs and then killing time in a tiny cafe with a larger than life owner, we decided we had seen what we wanted to see on Mt. Koya and the drizzle and 4.5 degrees didn't inspire us to hang around. We managed to change our tickets at the very last minute and get an earlier train down to Osaka. There will be a lot more to do in 2 hours there than on the mountain.

We stay in Nagoya tonight and Dad flies from there tomorrow morning. I'll head for Tokyo and try to fit in Hakone, Nikko and shopping before it's time for me to go.

Cake!

Raining and cold - coffee and cake time!

Saturday 17 November 2007

Rengejo-in

Staying in a temple tonight!

Friday 16 November 2007

Great balls of fried veg

Last night's dinner, along with noodles.

Hi ho hi ho

It's up the mountain we go! This is the Mt. Rokko cablecar in Kobe.

Thursday 15 November 2007

And now for something completely diffent

We went down to the neon maze of restauraunts that is Dotonburi and had takoyaki (squid doughballs), yakisoba (fried noodles) and okonomiyaki (cabbage pancake with various ingredients topped with special sauce and mayo). So not haute cuisine but very nice.

Himeji Castle

I am so going to use up my memory card by the end of this trip.

Wednesday 14 November 2007

Chicken tonight

Well, last night. There's a chicken speciality restaurant two doors down from the hotel who do chicken tempura, which I just had to try. The front door was upstairs, so we didn't know what to expect until we got there.

There was a traditional sliding door, but with an automatic door opening button. As we walked in, the lobby was filled with a group of young men on their way out, so we couldn't immediately get to the entrance. 'Someone tell them they've got customers.' 'Hey, you've got customers.' One of the staff came out to meet us and showed us the lockers for shoes, then we followed them around labyrinthine polished wood corridors to a tatami room which looked like you had to sit on the floor but actually has a hollow under the floor so you sit normally with your legs below what looks like floor level.

They had an English menu, we had four different types of skewers, deep fried chicken, omelette with dashi and chicken - very like battered fish, but with chicken. Dad had sake, and it all came to just over 20 pounds. The head waitress spoke English, and all the staff were very nice. Great place!

Off to Himeji Castle today.

Psst - want a kitten?

This is a shop on the main shopping street the hotel is on, selling what seem to be pedigree kittens for 990,000 yen. Some were Whiskas kittens, which seem to be American Shorthairs. Very playful and energetic - good thing I can't take one home with me.

Lights on at Osaka Castle

I decided not to bring my camera today - will have to come here again!

Osaka Castle inner moat

One rescue call too many

Didn't know about the mildew

And yes again!

Tuesday 13 November 2007

Oh yes

The illumimated orange arch is some kind of ferris wheel. It has been added to the itinerary!

Neon view

Out the window at the Comfort Hotel Osaka Shinsaibashi - right in the middle of town!

The mother of all temples

On the train back from Ise Shrine, which enshrines the spirit of Ameratesu, divine ancestor of the Imperial Family and is the most important shrine in Japan. You're not actually allowed into or near any of the buildings, which are hidden behind high fences, you can only see the roofs from a distance - which is a shame as it's supposed to be a stunning example of pre-Chinese influence architecture.

We had an amazing lunch of Matsuzaka beef cooked over charcoal - so tender you could cut it with chopsticks. We also saw the 'wedded rocks' off the coast, with loads of frog statues, apparently the messengers of the god(s) of the rocks.

Monday 12 November 2007

Man and wife rocks

Got back into Nagoya on Sunday after a morning playing with Tomoko's kids. Well, Shuugo (2) was still hiding behind his mom, but I played blocks with Saaya (4) and talked about the good and bad points of the JET Programme with Tomoko. It wasn't the best night's sleep - I was woken twice during the night (once by Shuugo and then by some music) and finally gave up at 7am when the kids turned the TV on. Kid's TV seems to be the same anywhere, although I was surprised by the amount of merchandising.

I think I found the last large locker in the whole station area - outside the station in a corridor linking the tube lines with an underground shopping center. There was no change machine, so I ended up buying a bottle of water and a can of warm cocoa to get enough 100 yen pieces.

Met up with Dawn and Simon at Yagoto, slightly late, in the vain hope of seeing some red leaves. Had a good lunch and a great chat, and got some beading books!

Retrieved my suitcase from the locker, and emailed the Iidas to say I would be abit late. After not getting on one train due to it being full of returning baseball fans, slow conneations and simply getting on the wrong train, I arrived a whole hour late.

More later, need to get back on the road!

Sunday 11 November 2007

Sold out?

Seen on the train to Nagoya.

Saturday 10 November 2007

Kitty!

Staying at my friend Tomoko's house - this is her cat Chobi.

Tales of the unexpected

The special exhibit was good - many items were taken from temple treasure houses. But way too crowded, and it seems to bring out the worst in some Japanese people. I lost count of the number of times my bag was nearly ripped from my shoulder with all the pushing and shoving.

The rest of the museum was excellent, with ancient pottery, calligraphy, textiles, paintings and some amazing Buddhist sculptures. There were no restaurants nearby, so I ended up walking back to the river and eating in one of those restaurants where you buy tickets for your food from a vending machine and give it to the staff.

Next was the potter Kawai Kanjirou's memorial museum, which is actually his house and kilns preserved as they were when he died. Small, but beautifully presented and almost certainly a better way of giving an insight into his life than your standard museum.

My friend in Gifu changed her plans twice so I had to queue again to get a new reserved seat to Nagoya and was late for dinner on my last day at the Mizutanis. When I got there, the place had been taken over by their grandchildren, Kouta and Ayako. Kouta had calmed down a bit since I'd last seen him, but Ayako was now the one tearing the house down under the guise of 'helping' with everything. Their mother Yoshiko and four month old sister Eriko were also there.

Normally I don't get on well with kids or babies (Kouta threw a slipper at my head the last time I was there) but by the end of the evening Kouta and Ayako were calling me おねえちゃん (big sister) and climbing all over me, and the amazingly good-natured Eriko and I had got into a cycle of looking at each other, seeing the other was smiling and starting to laugh - then Eriko would hide her face in the mattress and look up, and it would start again. I laughed so much I got a stitch.

Now on the shinkansen to Nagoya, where I'll change to the Chuou line for Nakatsugawa to meet up with some of the teachers I worked with when I first came here in 1998. Tomorrow it's back to Nagoya to stay with the Iidas and Dad arrives on Monday!

Friday 9 November 2007

Culture is popular

Doing the national museum today - there's a special exhibit on and the queue is out the door, across the grounds and down the road! Shall persevere...

Thursday 8 November 2007

Lunchtime!

Had chilled noodles and some sweets made from rice toasted and served with honey and powdered sesame seeds. Better walk it off...

Another sunny day

After chatting with Nobuko last about places I hadn't been to yet, I'm off to the mountains in Arashhiyama today. I've been there before, but not to one particular temple - it was a pauper's graveyard and is crammed with statues dedicated to the dead. I'll spend most of what is shaping up to be another glorious day there - forecast is 22 degrees.

In other news, David now has a new case.

Wednesday 7 November 2007

Beautiful day

In Kyoto and seeing a few of my favourite things - including Fushimi Inari shrine.

Tuesday 6 November 2007

Okayama is home to Momotaro!

Long, old story. Look it up.

Onwards...

Looks like I left Kurashiki just in time - even at 10:30 thetour groups were starting to flood in.

I decided to skip the Ohara Museum as it's European art and set off from the hotel at 8am to wander the streets. The historical area was smaller than I thought, so I ended up visiting a few shrines as well, and bought a daruma academic success charm at one.

Around the side of the old textile factory was the smallest shrine with gates I had ever seen - two rows of them at right angles. As I passed under one, I noticed the wood was rotten to the core. I threw a coin into the box and prayed for a safe journey. That's when I noticed it. The second thing I noticed was the cloud of wasps. The first was to wasps what Godzilla is to an iguana. I backed away from the shrine.

After going around the canal area, I went to the Folkcraft Museum, and now in Okayama!

Monday 5 November 2007

Oops

Explains the tilt.

A room with a view

Arrived safely in Kurashiki, at the most expensive hotel of the trip - still only 40 quid (no breakfast). On arrival I thought I'd lucked out - incredibly fancy foyer. However, I had second thoughts on seeing my room. It's on the 7th floor, so there is a view of sorts, but it also has the most stained carpet I have ever seen. Including the rug hiding most of it. And then there's the sparking hot water pot. And I can hear the lift.

Never mind. I'm here to plan for tomorrow and sleep.

Glass Village

The last tram

Spent yesterday in Nagoya with Dawn - our usual mix of lunch, shopping and coffee. Bought some Xmas themed cloth and patterns for a Xmas tree and some cloth bowls. Just need to learn to sew now...

There was no room at the inn for my case - all the large lockers were full. After I had hauled my case back up the stairs, the attendant who had been telling everyone the lockers were full started shouting in my direction. I couldn't make out what he was saying, something-customer (何かお客様). It was only when I heard the elderly lady next to me gasp and say 「外人と言った!」("He said 'gaijin'!") that I realised he was talking to me. He had found a medium locker - I didn't care what he called me! It's actually the first time I've heard anyone object to the word 'gaijin', which strictly means 'outsider' and as such is apparently very rude. A controversy best kept with learners of Japanese!

The locker was too small, so I ended up hauling the case around all day. Nice blister on middle finger to show for it, plus making a nuisance of myself in all the shops.

After coffee and cake and buying a bentou, I ran for my train. Jet lag is making me disastrously sleepy from about 6, so really had to concentrate especially when changing trains - ended up going around in circles in Osaka. Arrived in Hiroshima at 10:30 and headed for the streetcar. The first two didn't go to my stop, but the conductor told me to wait for the Number 0. I checked the the timetable as his tram left - there was no 0. But it arrived anyway, old, creaking and juddering. The Lonely Planet thankfully had a list of stops so I could tell where I was between counting my pieces of luggage. Damn jet lag.

Have arrived at the Toho beads park - later!

Sunday 4 November 2007

Hiroshima tram

There were some newer ones, but the one I took last night was like this too!

The view from Comfort Hotel Hiroshima

Needless to say, it's not why I'm here.

Saturday 3 November 2007

The kindness of strangers

I didn't sleep at all on the flight - nothing like three episodes of CSI, Pirates of the Carribean 3 and Die Hard 4 to pass the time.

While queing for my Rail Pass, I picked up a tourist leaflet which said Nov 3 - also culture day - was the 東京時代祭, a historical festival. I grabbed my canera and headed out, photos to follow.

I felt fine until I got on the train back to Hanae's, when I literally started nodding off. Unfortunately, I had a cup of coffee balancing on my lap. Which soon made it onto the floor. I grabbed some tissues out of my bag (I only carry them in Japan as despite being a developed nation their toilets often lack paper) and desperately tried to mop it up as the train swayed. I was scrabbling for another tissue when a small cloth landed next to the spill - a man in his fifties sitting across the carriage had thrown it to me. I had barely thanked him when another tissue appeared, this time from the lady beside me. The spill was gone, leaving me with coffee-soaked tissues and the cloth. The man across the carriage reached over to hand me an empty tissue packet to hold them with, and a moment later the lady beside me gave me an empty plastic bag. I could only thank them again.

I felt guilty about the cloth but when I asked, the man just waved his hand gently in my direction - I could have it. I managed to stay awake for the rest of the journey (who knew mortification worked against jet lag?) and thanked them again when I got off. The lady was in her own world and didn't notice me, and the man just gave a slight nod in response.

I told Hanae about it at dinner and she gave a huge smile - ここ下町だからね - this is an older part of town (北千住) with older people, and as far as she's concerned, kinder ones.

Off to Nagoya in a few hours, meeting Dawn and Nozaki先生,then on to Hiroshima tonight for my anorak trip to the Toho beads visitor center tomorrow.

This phone is going to give me RSI - no predictive text entry in English and actually quite chunky. Think I'll get up soon and quietly do some packing.

Sandals of the Gods

One ofthe pair of colossal straw sandals at Asakusa Temple - they were having a Parade of the Ages which I caught the end of.

Thursday 1 November 2007

Testing...

If this works, I should be able to email posts while I'm in Japan! From
a Japanese mobile, so will be short and full of weird punctuation no doubt.