The mother of all temples

On the train back from Ise Shrine, which enshrines the spirit of Ameratesu, divine ancestor of the Imperial Family and is the most important shrine in Japan. You're not actually allowed into or near any of the buildings, which are hidden behind high fences, you can only see the roofs from a distance - which is a shame as it's supposed to be a stunning example of pre-Chinese influence architecture.

We had an amazing lunch of Matsuzaka beef cooked over charcoal - so tender you could cut it with chopsticks. We also saw the 'wedded rocks' off the coast, with loads of frog statues, apparently the messengers of the god(s) of the rocks.